Champagne: it’s what’s for brunch, lunch, and… back porch dinners.

So, after many months of confusing signals from Mother Nature, summer has arrived. Once faced with daily blustery northern winds, the heat has finally penetrated our universe, and beads of sweat begin to form on my brow just thinking about leaving the house. Let’s admit the obvious: these evenings are perfect for porch sitting and grill tending. Our Sunday mornings are born for brunches. What better to soothe my ache for a refreshing summer beverage than beautiful, vibrant, sparkling Champagne?

Commonly, we will drink Champagne at Sunday brunch, not only because the effervescent nature can soothe any morning aches, but the smooth, creamy character of these wines pair beautifully with eggs, fruit, and toast. Now the majority of vintages are made with Pinot Noir, but you can also find those fermented from Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, or blends of different grapes. The Monterey in San Antonio has various selections of bubbles, but specifically, a Premier Cru (1ER) NV Godme Pere et Fils Brut Reserve, a beautiful blend with notes of berries, lemon curd, and toast, which pairs foodgasmically with the Fried Green Tomatoes, Oysters and Eggs, or even Buttermilk Pancakes. Find it at Specs for $37.

At lunch or dinner, we frequently will start with Champagne, as the mass of appetizers will cry out from the menu, calling to us for the opportunity to plate next to a bubbling crystal glass. At L’Olivier in Montrose, recently named the best French Restaurant in Houston, country pate, lobster salad, and beef tartar have all made it to our table. And while they have an extensive and very well noted wine list, the sommelier and I covet the area of Bouzy within Champagne, so Andre Clouet Brut Silver (100% Pinot Noir) it is. A sommelier favorite, the dry personality of the style of wine also produces an earthy minerality, with citrus and green apple notes, and a crisp finish. An excellent Champagne, which you find at Specs for $42.

The humidity in South Texas can be a killer, and a nice change from the usual beer is definitely welcomed. As of late, I have been a big fan of a Champagne fermented from 100% Pinot Meunier grapes; in the past, this grape has been widely used for blending, but recently, the small black variety has been gaining recognition as having a unique flavor. Having been noted as the “unacknowledged grape”, Pinot Meunier is made to be drunk young, when the distinctive grapes are lush and soft. One of the better producers are Martine and Pascal Serveaux, hailing from the Passy-Sur-Marne region of France. The Serveaux Fils Blanc de Noirs is made exclusively from Pinot Meunier, and is harvested by the small family run winery, which only runs around 30 acres. Slightly pinkish with hints of golden color, traces of aniseed and hay, and a bouquet of redcurrants and strawberry, the wine produces a light bubbly goodness that tingles in my mouth, and is perfect for porch observed Texas sunsets, coupled with grilled salmon and asparagus. Find the Serveaux Fils Blanc de Noirs at Specs for $60.

What else can we ask for, other than a refreshing, vivacious way to celebrate our days? Let’s face it: whether you drink Champagne at brunch or dinner, inside or outside, this wine is a perfect bubbly component to summer. Cheers!

on hospitals, heaven at Haven, and a spicy Garnacha.

I think there is nothing worse than that “hospital” smell. In our case, it was a mixture of sanitizer, blood, and urine, all soaked into the air, coupled with a lunch tray of bland macaroni and cheese, applesauce, and microwaved cheeseburger. Of course, seeing your child, your toddler, your baby, hooked up to catheters and IVs and monitors is no task for the faint of heart. This was our life last week.

For those who have known our sommfamily, you know that from time to time we are saddled with long ER visits, late night pharmacies, and specialists. It started when Sommbaby was just five months old. She was diagnosed with bilateral vesicoureteral reflux (commonly known as kidney reflux), which occurs in 2.2% of girls, and commonly results in urinary tract and kidney infections. Unfortunately, no amount of nutrition, vitamins, or alternative therapy could reverse or treat her condition. A physical malfunction, she would either grow out of it, or would require surgery to repair the deformity.

To be clear, this condition is not something that limits Sommbaby in any way. It is not a cardiac diagnosis which requires open heart surgery, which I can’t even imagine; nor is it a neurological like epilepsy or autism, which are lifetime illnesses. Regardless of your own child’s condition, however, you find yourself their strongest advocate. Sommbaby has been on some form of daily prophylaxis antibiotics for well over 18 months now. That in itself worries me for her future, as overmedication results in hybrid bacteria and strong resistance to treatments. So, after several infectious breakthroughs and evidence of kidney scarring, our sommfamily opted for open surgery.

We were very lucky to have been in the hands of Texas Children’s Hospital, whose internationally renowned doctors and array of child and family specialists helped us through every encounter. Rhea was even taken back to the OR in her own Little Tykes car, being pushed by her anesthesiologist, and comforted with an iPad viewing of Curious George, held up by her child life specialist. The three-hour surgery went beautifully, so the doctor said; I barely heard the words as my heart was pounding, my ears incapable of detecting the faintest sound, my mind busy imagining the worst scenario possible. It took almost an hour, for me to hold my baby in my arms, for me to realize that everything was okay. I could breathe again. We spent the next two nights, as a family, in a patient room. Anyone who has ever spent the night in a hospital knows you don’t really sleep, especially with toddler patients, who are constantly being awoken for vital checks, medications, and the frequent “mommy” cuddles. The sommelier never left her side, not even to get coffee, until we were certain she would be discharged. He made her laugh and provided tickles, even when she wasn’t up to it. Therefore, I was the one who made trips to Starbucks, cafeterias, and found a sushi restaurant that would deliver to our room.

If I would have been braver, I would have taken the short 5 minute drive down to Haven, a farm to table restaurant located between Upper Kirby and Rice Village, and ordered a pulled pork sandwich. Served with a cider slaw and homemade potato crisps, the pork complements Houston’s own St Arnolds Elissa IPA beautifully. To top it off, I have always added a fried egg to my sandwich; as the gooey yolk swarmed my plate, I dipped my potato chip into the goodness and let my eyes close in pleasure. Heaven.

Another favorite is whatever they are doing with oysters at the time. I’ve had two wonderful dishes: fried oyster atop a buttermilk biscuit with andouille sausage gravy and a fried oyster tostada. Both are perfect with fun whites like a French Grenache a Spanish Albarino, both available on list for less than $40.

 

Definitely worth the trip, Haven champions: Texas agriculture, supporting farms from all around the state; sustainability not only through food, but through décor, such as reclaimed woods; and environmentally friendly practices, such as equipment purchases. No wonder it has various accolades and awards, to include Texas Monthly’s 2011 “Second Best New Restaurant in Texas” and one of Southern Living’s 2011 “5 best Restaurants of the South”. Yum.

But, let’s face it; I barely went across the street last week to get a vanilla skinny latte, extra shot. Yes, you read that correctly, three shots of espresso. Because I deserved it. And now that we have been discharged, are home, and Sommbaby is showing us that nothing fazes her, I deserve something more.

Like… an affordable Spanish red, such Juan Gil’s Honoro Vera Garnacha 2011: an earthy, spicy vintage with notes of licorice and dark berry. A very dark ruby-red color, the Garnacha is the second most planted grape in Spain, is resistant to wind and drought, and can have alcohol content in excess of 15%. One of the things I love about the Jaun Gil portfolio of wines is that it is family owned. The first generations built the first winery in 1916 amongst the Spanish countryside, and now, four generations later, Juan Gil is intertwining the traditional wine making process with technological advances, perfecting practices and providing the world with a variety of wines we love.

The Honoro Vera Garnacha is best with a paella, pasta, cold meats, or goat cheeses. It is versatile, spicy, warm, and very drinkable, and can not only be found on my personal wine rack, but at HEB for $7. (yes you read that correctly… $7…go get some!)

I don’t know about you, but I would much rather smell blackberry and dirty earth than antiseptic fumes from this Sommbaby’s hospital room. And now that we are finally home, I can get back to cooking instead of eating what’s available. So here’s a clink to you and yours, wishing all a wonderful beginning to a safe summer.

 
Cheers to good health and good wine.

five years ago: an open letter to the sommelier, with a side of Chablis.

Five years ago, we sat on a picnic table, under a flowing white tent and twinkle lights. We nibbled on mozzarella with basil and tomato, hand crafted pizza, and homemade lasagna, while grabbing Shiner from a blue ice chest. I wore a green dress.

Five years ago, we clinked our glasses as we toasted our friends and family. We recalled old memories and shared old stories of our upbringing. Under the starry sky, you kissed me on the cheek, and said you would love me forever.

Five years ago, the sun shone bright at dawn, as I walked outside to greet the day. The mourning doves welcomed me as I strolled into a small hill country village coffee shop. It was as if time was just beginning. I started to count the seconds of every hour.

Five years ago, I saw you nervously put your arm behind your back. The light engulfed the room as I walked to your side. You took my hand, and then you smiled. I wore a cream dress.

Five years ago, we vowed to live life together, to grow old, be kind, and open to trying new things. We were put to the test right away, as our livelihood was challenged in so many ways.

Five years ago, we continued to support each other, love each other, and cherish each other, good and bad. We looked on as our former lives fell apart, and vowed to rebuild it even better.

Five years later, we have.

I would do it again in a heartbeat.

I love you more than you will ever know.

 

 

*wine disclosure*

Five years ago, I would never drink Chardonnay. But because of the sommelier, even my taste in wine has changed. As I sip on a 2009 Maison Verget Chablis, the deep yellow mineral color shines from the glass, inviting me to smell the light citrus and taste the slight salinity of stone tones . A very appropriate wine for the spring, as newly minted grass comes forth from the earth. (For those who don’t know, a French Chablis is almost always 100% Chardonnay.) Perfect with local Gulf oysters and simple shrimp. Find it on Amazon for $22.

 

 

on moving, being moved, and moving on.

To say that I could sum up my blogging absence in a few paragraphs would be futile, for those who know me understand that nothing I write will ever be just a few paragraphs, nor a summary.  The truth is, I have had many inspirations flowing through my mind; mostly in my dreams, the words often form perfect sentences in my misty thoughts, only to be forgotten as soon as I wake.  Alas, here I am, with no pre work conjured for my own blog request.  So here it goes.

For those who did not realize, our sommfamily took a giant leap this Fall when I accepted a new position in Houston.  We packed up, hired realtor(s), enrolled in new early education schools, and found new lives.  As with any new venture, change can be exiting: exploring new cultures, learning new skills,  making attempting to make new friends.  Admittedly, it has been a lot of change at once.  We had become settled into our quaint San Antonio ways; surrounded by those who enjoyed us for who we were, our circle of friends had grown to include some of the most interesting people we have ever met.  We miss them terribly.  Looking back, I often have to remind myself that the Universe has granted us this unique opportunity in order to change lives.  Our lives. Our families lives.  Strangers lives.

My decision to take on new challenges prompted the sommelier to make changes as well.  As a result, he branched out with gusto into the wine retail world, where he has already turned heads with his detailed knowledge, and surpassed forecast sales with his easy-going style.  You really could say that the sommelier has made the transition quite nicely, at least here in the beginning.  Even he admits, though, as with any new position, it takes at least a year to grasp certain skills.  I am in awe of his evolution, and am moved to be inspired by the everyday.  In the meantime, he brings home all kinds of samples every night.  And because he represents such high quality portfolios, I don’t mind one bit.  One of my favorites is a 2006 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico from Michele Castellani.

With the apparent changing of the seasons, Amarone is a perfect wine to have around for those cold, windy Texas nights.  A rich, Italian dry wine, it is known as an old world red, and very distinct.  The 2006 Castellani contains the classic Amarone notes of toast, dried fruit, and spice; an intense varietal, it is normally paired with heavy meats, wild game, and strong cheese.  For those who know our little sommfamily, how could we not love this wine?  We love stinky cheese!  Even better, this particular Castellani scored 93 points with Wine Spectator:

“Shows dried berry, spice and cigar box notes, with dried fruits. Full-bodied, with round, caressing tannins and lots of ripe fruit and toasty oak, yet balanced and juicy. Why wait? But patience will pay off. Best from 2011 through 2018…”

Find it at Specs for $52.

Sommbaby absolutely loves her new school and has literally exploded with an assortment of language skills we are still trying to decipher.  Still as sweet as ever, but on the verge of becoming terrible, we have elicited the use of my nephew’s time out chair.  Unfortunately, I see a lot of myself, as well as the sommelier, instilled in her.  Mischievous.  Manipulative. Rugrat. Payback right?  Needless to say, I am still learning patience as my parenting skills are challenged on a daily basis.

(photo by the amazing Serina Sparkman)

So, what have I been up to? Why haven’t I taken the time to carefully craft pen to paper, making my blogging dreams a reality?  Well… I packed, decluttered, repaired, listed, sold, and lovingly said goodbye to the first house we ever bought in less than 60 days.  In my dreams I wrote a letter to the new buyer, articulating how special our little cottage house was.  We fell in love in that house.  Married in that house.  Fought in that house, and subsequently made up in that house.  We brought a new life into that house, and raised our very special rugrat in that house.  It was our home.  I cried when we finally left.   How could I not?

We procured a rental home in Katy (after five applications, and renting sight unseen!) in less than 10 days, hired movers,  wanted to fire movers, but finally moved door to door;  traveled to California, Florida, then back to California; celebrated the sommelier’s birthday, Thanksgiving, and the Coalson Christmas celebration.  We attended the Specs Vintage Virtuoso, which was quite the opportunity to drink mass amounts of deliciousness.

(just a few Grand Cru and Premier Cru Burgundy, 2009)

All this while working a new position, discussing neurological disease states, patient care, and caregiver concerns.  Driving 1000 miles a week, on average, and waiting in Houston traffic, in which you really need to add an hour to your time to get anywhere.  Admin like there’s no tomorrow. So, let’s just say I need a spa day.  And a friend or two.

It has been hard to move.  I admit it.  However, it is cleansing.  To rid your house, your home, your soul, of all the clutter that crowded in closets.  The cobwebs were so thick  with memories, I knew it was time to move on.  Speaking of, have you seen all the beautiful food that comes out of Houston?

No?   Oh, you will

Cheers.

what are you drinking tonight? …try a 2010 Oregon Pinot Noir.

Let’s face it, extreme weather has affected the entire United States the past few years. Everything from droughts to flooding, tornadoes to nor’easters has dominated the weather news. This was no different in 2010, where the cooler weather in the Willamette Valley forced vintners into a compressed harvest schedule, with very late blooms, and rainy picking conditions.  This is what winemakers call a “cool vintage.”  In regions with traditional cooler climates and shorter growing seasons, like the Northwest, early ripening varieties like Pinot Noirs thrive.   Winemakers got aggressive early, and thinned leaves, then fruits, several times over.  Most wineries on average had 100 days post bloom for the flavors to develop, which produced less opulent fruit and low alcohols, lower pH, and higher acidity.

(photo credit @TEXSOM, twitpic)

Welcome to the 2010 Oregon Pinot Noir.  According to Jerry D. Murray, Winemaker at Vanduzer Vineyards, this vintage is the prime example of what a Oregon wine should be.   Specifically, “…elegant, structured, layered, nuanced, not big..”  In fact, this vintage is so ideal that TEXSOM (the largest sommelier conference in the US) dedicated a whole session to it.  Nate Ready and Fred Dame, Master Sommeliers, hailed the 2010 Oregon Pinot not only as a great vintage, but very food friendly as well, pairing with mostly anything on the menu.

Where can you find a good, ready to drink wine, right now?  Honestly, restaurants are your best bet.  In fact, at our last Foodiemamas outing, we found a 2010 Oregon Primarius Pinot at Biga on the Banks, and while admittedly very light, paired well with both salmon and beef short rib.  My plan is to start scanning  the aisles of Gabriels, Joe Saglimbeni’s, or HEB for incoming varietals.  The sommelier suggests the 2010 Balcolmbe Vineyard Pinot from Patricia Green Cellars, which will set you back about $36, and which you can buy directly online from the winemaker.  In addition, start asking your local retailers to stock such wines as Eyrie Vineyards Dundee Hills or Brickhouse “Cuvee du Tonneliere.”  In due time, we will see some amazing wine come onto our local shelves.

Be ready!  Cheers!

patiently holding on to a 2009 Chateauneuf-du-Pape

I was fortunate enough to be invited to a dinner party a few weeks ago, at a gorgeous remodeled home located deep in Olmos Park.  The hosts had impeccable taste, from the local art that hung in their dining room, to the lace table linens, Laguiole cutlery, and Tiffany stem ware.  Even the dinner plates were garnished in a stunning mustard yellow pattern designed by Versace.  The food, deliciously prepared by Cascabel in Southtown, was amazing.  My favorite room in the house was the formal sitting room, where author works such as Mark Twain, William Shakespeare, and Friedrich Nietzsche lined the walls.  A special vicinity housed Dr. Suess and Brothers Grimm, and from which family pictures cascaded.  Although a casual affair, this get together was well planned and detail oriented.  I could see why the sommelier was attracted to this particular couple; like I mentioned: flawless taste.

There were a variety of guests, ranging from corporate executives and attorneys, to housewives and oilmen.  The collection of conversations was no doubt unique.  The sommelier and I had been sitting on some news for a few weeks, gently explaining that I was unable to partake in my favorite varietals due to antibiotic use or upset stomach.  In reality, we had discovered that we would be adding another member to our sommfamily, due sometime in February.  At this point, we felt like I was far enough along, symptoms in full thrust, that we were safely able to tell our friends why I didn’t taste the Barolos, Amarones, and Chenin Blancs.  So out the broadcast came.

After an immediate flurry of congratulations and best wishes, and a number of “way to go” pats on the back for the sommelier, my thoughts turned to the reality: two under two.  Both working parents.  Hazy finances.  We were in for a lot of work, and my anxiety started to kick in.  It was at this time that I noticed my all time favorite varietal sitting on the kitchen counter: Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

(image taken from fromgrapestowine.wordpress.com)

Hailing from the southern Rhone region of France, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, named for the papal vineyards that supplied Rome in the 14^th Century, has been considered rustic and of limited appeal in the US.  Historically, much of the regions production was blended into several different labels or sold into bulk.  In last few decades, however, there has been a surge of estate takeovers and improved winemaking techniques, creating a more appealing wine known so well to my palate.  Particularly, I find the rusticity, earthiness, and long finish of the Chateauneuf-du-Pape a welcomed breeze from our Italian themed collection.  It pairs well with strong dishes, like lamb or beef donned with  mushrooms, onions, and spinach.

 

(image taken from 123rf.com)

After voicing my love for the wine, my passion hanging on my sleeve like a sparkling ornament, one of the dinner guests offered me the bottle.  “Please take this as a celebratory vintage, enjoy it when you can drink the entire bottle, after your little one arrives,” he said.  A 2009 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe “La Crau”, the oilman could not have gifted a grander cru.  Known for their legendary terroir, the Brunier family has been perfecting the Chateauneuf-du-Pape since 1898.  Now represented by Kermit Lynch, this particular varietal is reaping the benefits of it’s longed labors.  Since Chateauneuf-du-Pape really needs at least 4-5 years in the cellar (better after 10 years), I was truly looking forward to opening this bottle of wine after the birth of our next little one.  I even concentrated during Prenatal Yoga to develop the consciousness of our mini-somm’s palate.  I am big believer of sensory development, after all.

 

Weeks passed and I toyed with posting about my experience in Olmos Park.  Then we visited my doctor this past Monday, and found that I had a blighted ovum, an empty gestational sac.  While my body showed all the signs and symptoms of pregnancy,even forming a placenta, my womb was barren.  The immediate response was to undergo surgery right away, not because this was the norm, but because my schedule would not necessarily allow me to naturally miscarry.  With a surgical option, there would be more control.  The sommelier and I did not argue.  The very next day I would be no longer dreaming of a larger sommfamily.

Of course there are strong feelings about our loss.  The Universe has plans for us, although I dare to challenge what they may be.  It seems as soon as I accept changes to my personal future, my world is turned upside down and forced to acknowledge a new fate.  Needless to say, I am still struggling with the turn of events.  First I was anxious; then I understood; then I accepted.  Now I am empty.  And sad.

I think about finding a medium style Chateauneuf-du-Pape to enjoy now, like a Clos St Jean Vieilles Vignes 2006, which can be found at Specs for $55.  But it hardly seems fair.  I somehow feel like it is not yet time to enjoy my favorite wine.  It is as if no one told my body that our little one no longer exists, or rather, never existed. My breasts still hurt and my body aches.  It is strange, and I am still besieged with the concept.  Instead, I opt for my go to house wine, the inexpensive, yet drinkable Chianti that I have learned to love over the past year.  Things change so quickly in our household.

A lot has taken place this week.  As our family heals, my hope is that the gifted 2009 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe “La Crau” ages beautifully, so that in a few years, regardless of our family size and situation, we can enjoy the vintage with gladness and ease.  It is worth holding on to.  Time transforms all (that’s what they say, anyway).    In the meantime, drink well, be merry, and cheers.

the realization of free time and the persnickety Texas Viognier

If you would have told me a few years ago that I would be home at 10 pm on a Friday night, every Friday night, I would have laughed.  Not only would I have laughed, but I would have bought you a glass of wine.  Or a beer.  Or a scotch.  I would have leaned over the bar, whispered something to Olaf, and snickered.  My thoughts immersed in watching the clock, I would sit waiting for the sommelier to walk through the phone booth.  I talked to strangers and read my liberal left magazines. Oh, how I miss those days.  Don’t get me wrong.  Sommbaby is the most beautiful, intelligent, amazingly aware spirit that could have entered my life.  I love tending to the garden while she plays in the yard, in the water, and in the mud.  She captures my heart, and I would never trade her for anything.

( Photo by the amazing  Serina Sara Sparkman)

But, being a mother is hard.  Being a working mother is even harder.  I thought that once I finished graduate school that things would be easier, life would somehow become magically “perfect”; it was one less thing for me to do every day.  Less reading.  Less typing.  Less  checklists.  In reality, I have found a hole.  A gap in the busy life I used to lead.  I am constantly looking for projects, those which will not only fill my time, but also fill my need to constantly learn and grow.  Surprisingly, this process has become extremely painful for me.  In fact, a large part of me is somewhat sad.

So, tonight I contemplate my new goals in life, organize small projects, set deadlines, and work through the toughest emotions I have had in a while.  What better to nurse me through the ache?  A 2011 Becker Vineyards Viognier.

A rare white grape grown almost exclusively in the Northern Rhone regions of France, Viognier prefers warmer climates with long growing seasons. It’s no wonder, then, that Texas is the perfect climate for such a persnickety grape. Assumed a substitute for full bodied Chardonnay, Texas Viognier is round, luxurious, and smooth.  It comes with layers of intense, aromatic complexity, and has a creamy mouthfeel all its own.  Of all the wineries in Texas that produce a Viognier, Becker Vineyards has won the most “street cred” and obtained the optimum shelf space.  This year, Texas Monthly has even named the slightly fruity white a must have.

It’s a great way to wind down on a smoldering Friday night. After a week of ten-hour days, late day-care pick ups, even later dinners, and midnight laundry sessions, I deserve it.  And so do you.  Aptly priced at $14, it’s too much of a value not to give a try.

Go Texan.  Go Local.

Cheers.

 

 

 

Five Wines to Try for Under $20

How many times have you scoured the grocery shelves looking for a bottle of wine to serve with dinner? What is it they say? White wine for fish and chicken, red wine for beef? Before I met the sommelier, I would buy based on the funky label or creative name. So, wines like Ménage a Trois, Sofia Coppola, Clos Pegas, and Bitch have all made it into my shopping cart. Since I have actually started drinking wine, however, I buy based on taste. There are so many different flavors cascading the aisles; it seems extraordinarily difficult to determine which would be a good value. Even if you know what varietal you want to buy, the choices seem endless. Sometimes, we need direction. The following post contains a list of five drinkable wines under $20 you can find at your local HEB (in my case, these were all located at Alon Market).

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2008 Allegrini Palazzo della Torre Corvina Veronese

Veneto is a wine-producing region in the north-eastern corner of Italy, and has become increasingly more important in the last few years. In terms of style, it represents a conversion from the alpine, Germano-Slavic end of Italy to the warmer and drier Roman southern lands. The Palazzo della Torre is a blend of 70% Corvina, 25% Rodinella, and 5% Sangiovese. With blackberry and dark cherry on the nose, this medium bodied wine consists of layered fruit on the palate with a hint of earthiness. It may take a while to open up, so you may want to decant. An amazing value at $19.

Mumm Napa Brut Rose

The Carneros Valley is a wine-producing region hidden in between Napa and Sonoma. You can find several sparkling makers who follow the tradition of French Champagne vintners, blending partially press fermented wine with that of stainless steel tanks. Mumm Napa Brut Rose is a blend of 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Chardonnay, with notes of both black cherry and strawberry. A beautiful salmon color, this sparkling pairs well with a variety of dishes; for something different, try with something spicy. $19.

2009 Mac Murray Ranch Sonoma Chardonnay

The Sonoma Coast has long been known for its cooler mornings and sunny afternoons, creating perfect conditions for the vineyards that are grown there. Now I am not one for oaky Chardonnay like the sommelier, so the Mac Murray Ranch Sonoma is the perfect compromise. Both aged and fermented in oak barrels and stainless steel tanks, the combination of styles produces a fresh vibrancy unforeseen in other wines. Orange blossom, peaches, and honey all rest on the nose, while a rich mouthfeel brings notes of lemon cream. A steal for $14.

2009 Borsao Tres Picos Garnacha

Spain is traditionally known for it’s Riojas and Tempranillos. But, if you haven’t tried Garnacha yet, you are missing out. This grape needs hot, dry conditions to grow, and the resulting wine usually contains a high alcohol content. With strong fruit forward tastes of black cherry and blackberries, this red wine is complimented with clove, incense, and Asian spice. I imagine this wine pairing well with ragout, rabbit, and other meats. An earthy wine with robust flavor, and an extraordinary deal at $11.

2010 Chain Gang Vineyards Sonoma Red Wine

Recently aware that HEB supports its own brand labels, I wanted to try one, of course, and had read about this particular wine. A very intense red blend from the Central California Coast, Chain Gang Vineyard Red has tastes of black currant, cherry, and berry, and a nose of vanilla and pepper. Smooth and silky, the wine does have a bite to it. Will pair best with steak or lamb. I recommend decanting or letting it sit uncorked for 30 minutes before drinking. $18.

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While I may not keep all of these on the rack, these are just some suggestions for a few great buys from our local store; look for more to come from our somm family. Cheers!

from Yellow Tail to J. Vidal-Fleury: my wine journey through an MBA

In 2006 when I decided to start going to graduate school, Yellow Tail Shiraz was my table wine.  Really.  I was determined to start my MBA because I felt like I had so much more to give.  My brain becomes bored easily; I prefer challenges, both mentally and emotionally.  If you were to meet the sommelier and I in person, you would know this.  He is the ying to my yang, my complete opposite, and a challenge to crack.  Countless friends and family have commented on his dour nature versus my energetic friendliness, and wondered how we ever got together.  That story, however, is best left to another post.  A true buttress of support throughout the long battle with my degree, the sommelier has endured countless sleepless nights to the sound of my keystrokes, been subjected to stressful series of exams, and dealt with anxiety surrounding such exam failures, of course which never materialized. A myriad of wine glasses have found their way onto my nightstand.  It is important to note that the wines mentioned in this post are my wine memories alone, as the sommelier has always had a completely different palate, much more sophisticated and refined.  When we go to dinner, he chooses our pairings, as it should be.

I have always been especially sensitive to marketing, and very critical as well. In 2006, I thought Australian wine was the bees knees, and (back then) Yellow Tail was sensibly priced at $6.99 a bottle.  I could drink 750ml and think nothing of it.  Just like any other 26 year old, learning about wine was the last thing on my mind.  Drinking wine, however, was another issue entirely.  Very fruit forward, with strong notes of berry and a hint of vanilla, it paired well with my night of watching HBO.  Of course, if I were at dinner I would lean toward a more premium wine, a Chateauneuf-du-Pape or Bordeaux. I loved the earthy flavors; tasting the soil in every sip, I thoroughly enjoyed my red beauties with mushrooms and onions.  I had only met the sommelier a year earlier, just bought a house, and was working fifty hours a week.  Our weekends were spent late at Soleil Bistro and Wine Bar, dancing to keyboard cruise music and drinking half priced bottles of French wine.  The sommelier had just opened a new restaurant for good friends of ours. While I would never recommend Yellow Tail to a beginner now (unless you are cooking with it, of course), it was a logical choice for me at the time.  If you are new to drinking wine, and want to start with an inexpensive light red wine, try Louis Jadot Beaujolais Villages.  It’s 100% Gamay, slightly fruity, and very light in tannins. Find it at HEB for about $10.  If possible, try to find a Cru Beaujolas, as they are much better in quality. 

The funny thing is, the more you drink, the more you learn.  I find that I like to drink wine in stages.   I remember one particular stage in 2007 involving Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc, which was a nice shift from the Yellow Tail.  One country over in New Zealand, “Kimmy” as we so lovingly called her, was bright, with a nose of citrus, melon, and grass.  The palate was slightly creamy, with definite green apple, but balanced with citrus acidity.  Pretty reasonably priced, she was a mainstay in our fridge, especially during the summer months.  When I see that green bottle with the words “Marlborough” across the label, I reminisce about driving to The Valley, taking time after my workday to walk the South Padre Beach, eating oysters at South Padre Brewing Company, and the smokiness of Kelly’s Irish Bar.  I would race home on Thursdays to make my Marketing class, where we worked with the Central Intelligence Agency on a joint advertising venture.  It was like having two jobs.  It was my first experience as a Director of anything.  I loved being so busy.  It was also the semester the sommelier and I got engaged in Hawaii, on a well-earned company paid vacation.  Not sure those type of reward trips exists these days, but you can find Kimmy for about $18.99 at your local HEB.  

In 2008, the sommelier and I both were infatuated with everything Truchard Vineyards, although our favorite was Pinot Noir.  With an opulent nose of cherry, cranberry, and earth, the palate was silky and round, and coated my cheeks with flavors of plum.  A nice spice smoothed out the finish.  Hailing from the Carneros Valley, Truchard is a family vineyard started by native Texans from the Columbus area.  We first visited the winery on the sommelier’s first trip to Northern California, and fell in love with all of their wines.  We adored the Truchard Pinot Noir so much that we served it at our wedding. That year, I was still traveling every week, planning our big day, and still taking one night class at UTSA.  Economics.  Because I like to be busy, you can only imagine that I did not hire a wedding planner, although you can take note that I relied heavily upon my sisters and family for support in this area.  Our wedding was complete with a horse and carriage ride to the reception, original handmade mesquite planters, an Austin Powers DJ, and unique foliage.  Even though I may have had just a tad bit too much wine at the reception (it was my one and only day, after all!), it was a success.  The sommelier and I have survived the first four years, and are looking forward to many more.  You can find the Truchard Vineyard Pinot Noir at the Alon Market HEB for $35. 

The economic downturn hit home for us in 2009.  The sommelier and I were both out of work at the same time.  And, even though I was a National Sales Award Winner, two years in a row, I was unable to find an opportunity within my industry.  My confidence was shaken.  I must have gone on fifty interviews, and was a final candidate at least three times.  It seemed to be in vain, however, because I never received an offer.  My morale sunk even deeper.  We were living off the remnants of a very generous severance and my 401K, but I needed to work.  I started lending my time to the City of San Antonio Metro Health as an inspector.  Yes you read that right.  I was that evil examiner, notebook in hand, watching every move made in the Chef’s kitchen.  Even though it was just temporary, it brought me down to size.  I continued to venture towards that degree that never seemed in my grasp.  Because I was downtrodden, I only took one class a semester.  Our habits, too, turned to frugal ways, and I started to enjoy the lighter side of things, including my nightcap.  In 2009, I started drinking Naia Verdejo, a drinkable Spanish white wine with a nice price tag.  It was surprisingly fresh, with aromas of lime and kiwi; the finish long and dry.  A very nice wine to sip in the summertime on your back porch, especially when contemplating karma, gratitude lists, and manifesting better days.  You can find Naia Verdejo at Spec’s for $13. 

In 2010 I reinvented my career into a new industry.  Still sales related, I spent my days working whilst still, yes still, attending school at night.  This year, however, I was determined to finish.  I began scheduling a full course load every semester, three classes in the Fall, three classes in the Spring, one course in the Summer. Our family had plenty of plans to follow through on, especially with sommbaby on the way.  We renovated our floors, painted walls, bought furniture, and read parenting books.  And then, when I could, in the last trimester, I had my glass of wine.  Usually, it was some sort of Syrah, while sitting in the Old Style Mon Ami, chatting with Olaf, waiting on the sommelier to be relieved of IL Sogno.  The sweet spice and leather nose of a Cote Rotie from Northern Rhone blended in nicely with the dark red décor of Mon’s.  The red cherry flavors of the wine lingered on my tongue as I slowly sipped my one weekly glass.  The sommelier would say, “maybe you should try a different wine to develop sommbaby’s palate,” but I insisted.  Syrah it was. Amazingly, I made it through my classes with flying colors, even giving birth over Spring Break.  I contribute this wine to helping me through a tough labor; just the thought of it soothed my nerves.  You can find a J. Vidal-Fleury Cote Rotie Brune et Blonde (2004) at Spec’s for $57. 

The Italian wines soon made a grand entrance into our home, and decidedly, onto my rack.  For those unaware, I have a wine rack in the dining room.  Mine and mine alone, I can drink from this wine rack only; no, I may not even dare to open the refrigerated coolers that line our pantry.  I would only be scathed with cattails beaded with corks.  So, in 2011, Chianti became my drinkable wine.  Not because I chose to drink it, or went out of my way to buy it, but because, week by week, it showed up on my rack.  “I got a good deal on it,” the sommelier would say.  So, there it would be.  And, because it really was a great price, we drank a lot of it.  Sommbaby was still growing into her own, on a three-hour schedule, and so my Friday nights turned into friendly girl dinners at home with co-workers. We would make veal Bolognese with gnocchi, meatballs with polenta, and pork wrapped in pancetta, and of course, there was always plenty of Chianti to go around.  Truly, I think the reason why I love the juicy red wine is because (at its best) it contains at least 80% Sangiovese: dark fruit, dark cherry, and leathers.  Notice a trend here?  Well, at least I’m consistent. Still, I was venturing on full-time in my course work.  I could see the light at the end of my tunnel.  Only one semester in 2012, and I would be done. Still, Chianti reminds me of friends near and far, those gained, and those lost to progress.  Unfortunately, you can’t find the 2010 Il Principe Chianti I’ve been swigging back on any retail shelf.  You can, however, find 2006 Agostino Petri Chianti, a better version, at Central Market for $48. 

A few weeks ago I finally graduated with my MBA.  So, what was on the menu for dinner?  You can only imagine the difficulty in deciding the wine experiences of those around me.  I have had my love affair with Cote du Rhone, rekindled a passion for Gruner Vetliner, and found a new fervor for Rose.  We ordered them all.  And, the year is still young. Many possibilities abound.  I don’t know about you, but the sommelier and I are ready to find a new crush, one which, in the future, can be introduced to sommbaby.  We are really looking forward to introducing her to her legacy.  Year by year. 

 

Cheers!

vintage dining at Restaurant Gwendolyn: truly supporting local

When I first met Michael Sohocki, the sommelier and I were enjoying a light brunch with a brand new sommbaby. We dined on farm eggs, Benton’s bacon, and sipped on Gruner Vetliner, as we often did in those days. Michael was in the process of opening his new concept, Restaurant Gwendolyn, and the sommelier was advising on the local wine trade: which distributors to utilize, wine reps to trust, and varietals to carry. Then the conversation turned to the menu, and I overheard something like,”I am not going to use any devices or materials that were not available in 1850.” I immediately turned my head. What? Why How can you do that? Wouldn’t you be in the kitchen all day? Michael acknowledged the challenge that lay before him, noting that he would have to come in early to bake the breads, breakdown the proteins, and prepare the daily menu. He wanted all of his food sourced within 150 miles of San Antonio, the way they did it in olden days. When Michael spoke about his ideas, I could see the passion behind his eyes. That was a year ago.

(photo courtesy of mysanantonio.com)

Today, you can see Michael walking around the Pearl Farmer’s Market, gathering viable fruits and vegetables, talking with the locals. He is also a member of the San Antonio Chef’s Coalition, a band of Chefs determined to grow food awareness. At the Pearl, Gwendolyn has a booth that sells fresh sausage, baked goods, and this past weekend, whole seed mustard. But Chef Michael’s restaurant is also capturing attention. Named new + noteworthy by Texas Monthly, one can sense he has come a long way since that first meeting.

A few weeks ago, the Foodiemamas held a dinner at Restaurant Gwendolyn to bid farewell to our very dear friend, Tara from mama2Aidan. We first gathered in Alamo Heights to sip on cocktails from Olaf Harmel, the master mixologist and libations creator extraordinaire (rumor has it he will be behind a new bar soon at The Pearl), before we made our way downtown. Feeling calm from a stiff bourbons and vodka concoctions, we sat at a white linen table, surrounded by antique furniture and paintings. The menu was set before us, consisting of only two options: three course or five course meals. Because the offerings were so appealing on all levels, I chose the five course journey.

(photo courtesy of Edible Austin)

Our first taste of local heaven was an amuse bouche shooter of carrot puree, a touch of ginger, and crumbled pecans. My first reaction to the taste was the memory of my days on the elementary school playground. Texas Pecans donned the fence line of my private school in Selma; we would pick up the seeds, crack them, and eat them during recess. The carrot puree was a polar opposite to the dry taste of the pecan. The tinge of ginger lingered in the aftertaste, arriving fashionably late, like a distinguished dinner guest. Needless to say, I was really looking forward to the rest of the courses.

With regard to the sweet nectar of the vine, Restaurant Gwendolyn offered a variety of wines from diverse regions. Most notable from the list: affordability. We ordered Vidigol Vino Verde for $36, Chateau Goudichaud Bordeaux for $40, and a Domaine de Morchon Cote du Rhone (our favorite of the evening) for $48. While not the best varietals I have ever had, these drinkable wines were perfect for our foodiemama farewell get together.

Next up: ham, spinach and cheese gougeres. Now I first discovered my love for these edible treasures this past Thanksgiving, finding it reasonably easy to blend the ingredients, freeze, and bake when needed. They make excellent hors d’oeuvres, light snacks, or breakfast bites. However, my puny attempt in no way replicates what Michael Sohocki created in his small Riverwalk kitchen. Thick chunks of farm raised ham came to our table smothered with spinach and dripping with Brazos Valley Cheese béchamel. From the very first bite, I was sold. Another reminder on why local is better. The taste is far beyond what you could imagine; I was sitting in a farmhouse, in Laura Ingalls gingham Prairie dress, eating food made from a cast iron skillet and a roaring fire. Out of all the dishes served to us at Restaurant Gwendolyn that night, this was by far my favorite.

If you know me at all Now you know that I am a huge fan of offal, so I couldn’t resist ordering the chicken hearts and chorizo bruschetta. Topped with cabbage, scallion, and crème fraiche, the dish was incredibly flavorful. Being such a fan of organ meats, however, I longed for a highlight of the chicken hearts over a dish with vast ingredients.

The palate cleanser (and marked third course) was a Texas Ruby Red grapefruit sorbet, harvested from Jim Killelea Orchards. Being a native Texan with memories of grapefruit breakfasts, this simple sorbet was not only clarifying, but mimicked the deep sweetness of the fruit, lower in acidity than most pink grapefruits. Clean deliciousness.

For my main course, I chose the ricotta ravioli, brussel sprouts, and buerre blanc. The other option for the evening consisted of roasted leg of lamb with pommes duchess. Normally I would go with the lamb, but this night I was going for a lighter meal. If you have eaten at any local restaurant worth its salt lately, then you know brussel sprouts have been all the rage this year. Chef Michael featured these beauties brilliantly, coupled with handmade pasta and ricotta. The taut texture of the vegetable complemented the soft raviolis, and sparked daydreams of dining in the Italian countryside, ensuing visions of golden fields ripe with rabbits, pheasant, and plentiful family gardens. Uncomplicated and unpretentious.

Our dessert course truly accentuated Chef Sohocki’s talents in the kitchen: orange panna cotta with champagne gelee and cinnamon shortbread. The cooked Italian crème, paired with oranges from G&S Orchards, gelled beautifully, and provided for smooth, velvety custard. The cinnamon shortbread bestowed a surprising kick to the plate, while the champagne gelee highlighted Chef Michael’s gastronomic abilities.

The meal was vintage. The atmosphere romantic and wistful. The food farm fresh. Overall, the foodiemamas had a fantastic experience at Restaurant Gwendolyn, and while dinner is a definite must, lunch is an affordable, local option as well. Apparently one can get a sandwich served with local meats and cheeses, on homemade bread, downtown, for under $10. The sommelier and I will definitely be back. In the meantime, every time I hear the phrase “support local”, I will think of Chef Michael Sohocki and his quest for serving truly local foods. Every bite tasted fresh off the farm, and in reality, it truly was.