Over the past many years, even before The Sandbar relocated to the Pearl, there has been one consistent component to the restaurants success:  Executive Chef Chris Carlson.  One only has to hear of his specials to recognize the brilliance; I almost don’t even bother to look at the menu.  Having survived Charlie Trotters in Chicago, Le Reve, the original Sandbar, he is now second-hand to Andrew Weissman, and has taken the culinary scene in San Antonio to a new level.  Each plate is perfected with his artistic vision.

(Executive Chef Carlson, Serafin Cassarrubias, & Sous Chef Justin Richardson)

We started with a Hamachi sashimi with chef prepared soy, mirin, and yuzu infused caviar. Micro greens to garnish.  The process to make your own caviar is daunting, but a recent trend among culinary artists.  I won’t hesitate to say that the yuzu caviar was my favorite, the round pearls smooth on my tongue, leaving a salty, luscious essence.

The thing is, if it was only the food, it would be one thing.  But, Adam Spencer, sommelier, can also pair your meal with the most drinkable wines of the moment.  He started us off with a Domaine Chandon Etoile, a beautiful Rose sparkling, with a sunset color and a rich, semi-sweet finish.  With a mixture of both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the glass was able to match all of our dishes, but paired especially well with the Hamachi.

Our next course, swordfish tataki with a black bean Asian sauce, was mild in flavor.  When married with the herb salad, however, the fresh greens provided a tang that lingered on the palate.  A beautiful combination, the dish paired well with the Nigl Gruner Veltliner, a very crisp and slightly fruit forward white wine.

With fresh fish, crustacean, and oysters flown in daily, Chef Chris Carlson has a plethora of ingredients in which to choose.  The close proximity to the Pearl Farmer’s Market doesn’t hurt either.  For our last course, sommbaby and I sipped on a creamy bouillabaisse broth, and enjoyed mussels, clams, fish, vegetables, and fish laid atop polenta.   Served alongside garlic toast, the bowl of goodness did not last long.  Sommbaby especially enjoyed the flaky fish and buttery flavors.

One entity that has consistently appeared on The Sandbar’s menu has been the key lime pie.  Fresh.  Creamy.  Delicious.  Perfect.  It’s a mainstay, and well worth the extra calories.

Weissman had it right when he opened The Sandbar.  There is no other restaurant in town with such high quality seafood.  He also had it right when he snagged Chef Carlson.  There is no other Executive Chef in San Antonio who has performed with such consistency and endurance.  Both Chefs have set the bar really high, and I look forward to continuing to enjoying every morsel yet to come.

Upon arrival, my date, Tara Burkholder of Mama2Aidan, and I were greeted with a beautiful Y vodka cocktail, mixed with roasted cumin, agave, soda, and fresh lime. The kicker was the candied Serrano pepper that infused the liquid with spicy flair. As my favorite bartender Olaf would say, you could tell this drink was inspired by a Chef. In fact, it was hard not to ask for more than one.

The setting for this past month’s social, Aquarius Boutique, was very well lit with bright blue paint; fashionably trendy clothing, jewelry, and shoes lined the walls extending to the storerooms. This month’s social not only included our fabulous meal, but a $50 gift certificate to spend in the boutique itself, so my eyes wandered over the items with procuring intent, focusing on flowy blouses and tunics.

The tables were set with unique settings, and instantly stole my attention. Local artist Katie Pell handmade each plate, with 1970s inspired chalk drawings assigned to each one. Okay, so not only am I sitting in a chic boutique surrounded by lovely people, but I also get to eat from a stylish plate? Lovely. The best part? I get to take it home. No joke. And the night hasn’t even started yet.

First on the menu? An appetizer plate, meant for grazing, and loaded with dried cherries, soft cheese with wild Guajillo honey, charcuterie, roasted pecans, manchego, citrus gelee, and a side of Farinata. Okay, I have to admit, I had to look this one up. Originally from Genoa, Farinata is basically unleavened bread made from chickpeas. And delicious.

After finding a seat, slurping the last of my arrival cocktail, and mingling with San Antonio society for a few minutes, our first course arrived: Lacinato Kale with shaved Reggiano cheese. The greens were sliced thin, and possessed a hint of lemon. Served cold, this appetizer was crisp, dark, and tasted fresh from the earth. Gorgeous. Needless to say, Obviously, I was looking forward to the rest of our dining experience.

Now I have to admit that beets have been all the rage lately. From Top Chef to the Food Network, to even our locals like Biga and Sandbar, beets are everywhere. However, I have not yet encountered the unique beet stained egg, which were tossed with root vegetables, raddiccio, baby greens, radishes, and herbs. If it couldn’t have sounded better, try this: warm bacon vinaigrette. The bacon actually brought out the flavors of the salad, and provided a nice contrast to the flavors of the greens. For those who know me, may it be no surprise that I actually bought my own wine pairing. I will say that The Special Projects Social did provide adequate table wine; however, the 2006 Heredad Soliterra Priorat complemented the beets perfectly, and paired nicely with what was to come.

Did I mention that I once had coffee with Chef Tim? It was really just an intrusion on her date with my friend Emily Stringer of DefiningDelicious, but I do remember quite clearly how she mentioned that she was formerly known for her vegetarian dishes. Well, based on the next compilation, I don’t doubt that. The winter vegetable stew over cous cous was loaded with sweet potato, cauliflower, beans, and greens. Even though I am a staunch meat eater, I heavily enjoyed this dish.

So here we were, already full of local fresh vegetables sprinkled with cous cous, bacon vinaigrette, beets, cheese, and candied Serrano peppers. Could it get any better? Um… yes. The piece de resistance, the cream of the crop, the best plate of the night: stracotto over creamy polenta.

What is stracotto? I know, I know, I also had to look this up. Basically, stracotto is an Italian pot roast. Depending on the origin, it could comprise of beef chuck roast, but honestly I don’t think it lasted long enough on my plate for me to tell. When asked, Chef Tim indicated that she was up all hours of the night preparing. And you could tell: the meat literally melted in my mouth, and combined with the perfectly cooked polenta, was extraordinary. And such care was taken with the polenta. When eaten alone, the butter lingered in your mouth.

After all this, we were served both a dessert cocktail and dessert. Can you imagine how full we were? The cocktail: Y vodka, cardomon rose syrup, blood orange, and rose sugar.

I will admit, not as memorable as the arrival cocktail, but I had other things on my mind: cake. And there were two; a Banana Pineapple Cake with Dulce Leche Frosting and a Guava Cream Cake. Let me announce this: the banana pineapple cake was one of the best I’ve had. Paired beautifully with a 2001 Trimbach Gewurztraminer, the sweetness of the wine allowed the pineapple to shine through the airy frosting. It was the perfect ending.

Everyone at our table was so impressed with Chef Tim and the Special Projects Social in general. I imagine we will be hearing a lot more about her in the near future. In fact, my date and I were lucky enough to sit next to Tracy Rios, food writer for Formo Magazine, which is printing a review of this very meal in their March issue. Let’s just say I know it won’t be the last. I am sure that we will see the likes of Chef Tim around for a long time to come.

We left the house early in order to get in line at Franklin BBQ by 10am. We were lucky it was a weekday; if it had been Saturday, we would have been too late.   If you haven’t yet heard, this increasingly known spot in East Austin is all the rave when it comes to slow smoked brisket.  Featured in the likes of Bon Appétit, The New York Times, Austin Chronicle, and various food blogs, a foodie such as myself has already read the amazing meat smoking habits of Aaron Franklin, his 3am rituals, and the line that starts outside his restaurant door very early in the morning.

The sommelier and I rushed around getting our things together for the day: stroller, extra baby clothes, baby food, bottles, the list goes on…. when did our lives become a vision of shelves at Babies R Us?  We arrived promptly at 10 am, coffee in hand, to literally wait in line until the doors opened at 11.  At about 10.45, a girl came out of the side door, pen in tow.  She floated through the queue, taking orders from person to person; to ensure that the delicious BBQ we had been dreaming of since the night before would be plenty.  When she came our way, the sommelier promptly ordered a pound of brisket, pulled pork, ribs, and sausage.  Are we feeding the neighborhood?  Alas, I guess these 5.30 am exercise classes are worth their muster.

An hour later, we were sitting at an outside picnic table, Hefewizen smoothly drifting down our throats.  The smoke from the pits permeated in the air, the marbling of the brisket allowed the meat to easily tear apart, and the homemade sauce left a tanginess which left me wanting more.  The rib meat fell off the bone, and the pulled pork melted in my mouth.  The sausage had flavor, not surpassing some I’ve had, but definitely a spark of pepper here and there.  Pinto beans and coleslaw as sides, our lunch could not have been more complete.  It was definitely worth the wait, and worth the entire trip.  And just to think, we had the rest our day to look forward to.

Our next stop was South Congress, to cruise my favorite stores, like Goody Two Shoes and Tesoros Trading Company.  Maybe it was the stroller, but it definitely seemed different cruising down this eclectic side of downtown.  More restaurants…more stores… a cute vintage full service barber shop.  Nothing could be more complete than a food trailer park lining the street, complementing the style of South Austin.  While we did not partake this trip, I know I will be taking advantage of this ideal location in due time.

After some playtime with Rheagan at a local park, the sommelier and I headed up to North campus to completely involve ourselves in the nectar of the vine.  Of all the places in Austin that the sommelier and I could have headed to at four in the afternoon for a glass of wine, Vino Vino was absolutely perfect.  As soon as we walked in, I could tell this space was special.  The entire left side of the wall was lined with wine, with a large variety of Old World styles, which always capture my heart.  As we walked across the floor, the boards gave under my weight just slightly, noticed their beauty, and could instantly see the heritage in their placement.  We later found out that the owner, Jeff Courington, bought them from an old dance hall from some small town deep in the Texas countryside, restored them, and placed them here in his wine lounge.  He even recycled an original long bar. There’s nothing I love more than true Texas history.  And here we were, surrounded by old world wines and Texas pine.   The question became: what to drink?

The sommelier took some time, but eventually decided on a Lambrusco, a different wine than I expected, although, since from Italy, not entirely surprising.  The Lambrusco grapes that are used to produce the wine originate from only five zones in Italy; the wine itself is frothy, fizzy, can be slightly fruity, and is meant to be drunk young.  It’s actually a great alternative for a warm Texas afternoon Rose.

I settled on a 2009 Kermit Lynch Cypress Cuvee, a blend of Grenache and Syrah, and could immediately taste the blackberry and fig.  On the finish a tobacco made a slight entrance.   It was a nice wine on its own, but would have definitely been enhanced by a variety of cheeses.  Great note for next time, Vino Vino offers great food in the evenings, ranging from charcuterie to gnocchi, paella, and what else… an extensive cheese menu.  No wonder it has won the best wine offerings in Austin four years in a row, it’s a complete package.  We will be back.

Even though the little girl was becoming slightly cranky, with bouts of vocal demands ranging from food requests to coddling, we decided to venture out to one more stop.  We were already in Austin, just minutes from various new hot restaurants.  When you are travelling with a little one, though, you have to be prepared.  We would dine early, get in before the dinner rush, and hopefully not create any kind of scene.  And we knew just the place to try.

Only a few minutes away from North Campus, Foreign and Domestic sits in an old store front space on East 53^rd.  We first heard about the Chef Owner Ned Elliot in last May’s Eater Austin, a showcase of his triumph and tribulations in the past years, and a sort of congratulations to his one year restaurant anniversary.  Needless to say, we were intrigued to try the showcased talent, also featured in the Austin Chronicle, Bon Appétit, Houston Chronicle, Dallas Morning News, and Texas Monthly.  We arrived just in time for dinner, we were one of few tables, and were greeted by the offering of off the menu wines.

(photo taken from Austin Eater)

I enjoyed the space:  very clean, simple, and reminiscent of an essential Austin eatery.  The appetizer menu sounded gorgeous: burrata, beef heart tartare, chanterelle mushroom soup… the sommelier chose the white anchovy tartine and I the soft egg and clams.  The tartine layered pickled onion, carrot, and a creamy horseradish sauce.  The crostini was crisp and held up to the anchovy nicely.  On my side of the table, the soft egg was poached perfectly, and was surrounded by pork belly, apples, and clams.  A play on ham and eggs, really.  I was expecting more clams, but was not disappointed with the end result.

In addition to the small appetizers, which, by the way, were in no way small, we ordered an off the menu special: beef tongue pastrami with chicken liver mousse and mustard.  The presentation was beautiful, the shaved thin meat paired nicely with the mustard, and the chicken liver mousse was smooth and creamy.  For dinner, the Pasta Puttanesca was spicy, and full of capers, olives, basil, and drenched in sauce, just the way I like it.  Moreover, the Chanterelle and Sweetbread Omelet was presented wonderfully, with crispy sweetbreads lying atop the folded eggs.   A surprise hint of apple flavored the dish from time to time.  Everything was fabulous, as we expected it would be.  If we lived in Austin, I surmise we would be eating here on a weekly basis.

We called it a day after dinner, and headed back to San Antonio.  Things have certainly changed for us in the past few years.  Back then we would have stayed in Austin for the night, traveling to and from 4^th Street lounges, meeting up with friends, and drinking scotch into the early morning hours.  Now we find ourselves making our way back home so that we can put the little girl to sleep in her bed.  We may even trip over some Little People on our way in the door.  No worries, though, we saved room for a nice Cognac to jumpstart our foodie dreams.  Cheers.

Who doesn’t love breakfast? When I was pregnant with the little girl, I would hallucinate about warm, newly baked bread, fresh squeezed grapefruit juice, and poached eggs. Chef Andrew Weissman of Il Sogno serves his eggs truffled alongside rosemary potato and hickory bacon. Il Sogno, besides being known for having some of the best coffee in town, also makes their own jams and honey lemon marmalade.

If you have not tried The Monterey in Southtown San Antonio, then you are truly missing out. Out of all the restaurants in San Antonio, you can count on El Monty to change up the menu on a consistent basis. One of my favorite food memories from the fabulous garden patio is from the Offal Tasting Menu. Chef Quealy served up chicken hearts, Korean BBQ style with a tangy kimchee sauce. I will admit, I am a sucker for offal. This dish was executed perfectly, not overdone, and not oversauced.

Food trucks have become quite the distraction these days. One of the original food trucks in town belongs to Chef Jason Dady, aptly named the Duk Truck, which I associate with his expertise in duck confit. The bird is prepared in traditional confit style, pulled, and then arranged on a mantou bun with cucumbers. Doughy, plain, and light, the bun itself does not take away the flavor of the duck, and allows the cucumber to penetrate the comprehension of the dish.

The Sandbar Fish House & Market, located at the Pearl Brewery, absolutely has the best seafood in town. Flown in daily, you can choose from oysters, sashimi, ceviche, and countless others. Chef Chris Carlson served up this halibut sashimi, complete with lemon foam, radish, and micro greens.

Now I am not one for tiramisu, but this dessert by Chef Bruce Auden’s Biga on the Banks gets a thumbs up from me. Rich and creamy, without the slightest sogginess, this particular dessert was one of my favorites this year.

Now sometimes you must toot your own horn. This year, the sommelier and I participated in the San Antonio half marathon. The night before, I prepared this delicious pasta with clams, mussels, and scallops in a white wine butter sauce. It was a great way to get our carbs in.

On our sommvacay to Napa this year, we had the pleasure of dining at quite a few places. Market in St Helena provided a very pleasurable lunch, where I dined on farm fresh avocado, roasted red pepper, and free range chicken on homemade focaccia bread. The spring salad had farm arugula and pine nuts in olive oil and vinegar. Delicious.

Bin 555 is a neat little restaurant tucked away in Artisans Alley in North Central San Antonio, and is also run by Chef Jason Dady. Probably my favorite charcuterie eaten this year was served here. The rabbit charcuterie, complete with pickles, radishes, and micro greens laid in stone ground mustard. Presented beautifully, I felt as if we should be sitting in New York, LA, or Chicago. The marbling was flawless, the rabbit and micro greens blended perfectly with the mustard. Even the pickles and radishes were clean and fresh, local, and contributed to the essence of the dish.

Every few years my mother’s family has a reunion in St. Marys, just outside of Shiner. This year we were served Janak’s sausage from Hallettsville. Old fashioned and hickory-smoked, this Czech sausage, made in Texas for generations, is the best you can find.

This seafood tostada from Mustards Grill in St. Helena was worth every bite. Salmon topped with cabbage, black beans, and a red sauce eased my hunger and provided enough protein to make it through the rest of the day tasting wines. A surprisingly light dish, it also surprisingly paired nicely with the Chardonnay that the sommelier chose for lunch.

The sommelier and I escaped to the garden patio of The Monterey on his 35^th birthday, complete with hungry industry folks. Not only were we able to enjoy a reasonable priced Chianti (or two), but the highlight was a dessert that QuealyQ brought out himself. A chocolate dipped HoHo served with crystallized ginger and topped with sea salt. The mixture of sweet and salty fashioned quite a memorable experience.

Now I wish I had pictures of our most memorable meal of the year, eaten at Cyrus in Healdsburg. I could explain the dishes in detail, even display our menu, but it just isn’t the same as seeing it in person. The tasting menu, the wine, the atmosphere: it rivals French Laundry in everything but price. There Cyrus has the floor. I can only say this: go there. You won’t be disappointed.

I am hoping now that the little girl is getting a little older, we will be able to take more trips and create more food memories. Up for 2012: Italy. I won’t even hesitate. Bring on the new year! Cheers and much food happiness to us all.

I started preparing a few evenings before, peeling 4 celery root and 1 potato, simmering for 40 minutes with 4 cups chicken stock, 1 tsp salt, and 2 tbsp thyme, and pureeing for our bisque. It didn’t take as long as I thought it might, and it tasted pure and delicious. I refrigerated until Thursday, when I reheated on the stove with 1/2 cup of whipping cream, then added chopped thyme to garnish.

The gougeres were delicious, and simply a must try for any Holiday party. Little Rhea and I made these ahead of time, froze them, and reheated them to serve. We started with 1 stick of butter which we melted on medium heat in a saucepan, added 1 cup of flour, 1/2 tsp salt, and 1 cup of water. Once blended, we added one egg at a time, whisking to smooth consistency each time, until 4 eggs were added. Meanwhile, we cut the corn from 2 fresh ears and roasted them at 400F. To the dough mixture, we added 4 chopped crispy slices of hickory bacon, 5 ounces of cheddar, 2 tbsp of Parmesan, 2 tbsp of fresh chives, and the roasted corn. We spooned the mixture onto parchment covered cookie sheets, about 1/2 inch in diameter, at baked at 375F for about 30 minutes. These were an instant hit with everyone, especially the kids.

As always, the sommelier brought in some great wines for us to sip on all day. We enjoyed some Proseco Italian Sparklers with our appetizers, which were mixed with Central Market blood orange or pomegranate Italian Sodas. Because we mixed the wine, we used non-vintage Zonin Proseco.

We forewent Haricot Verts for local green beans from Hondo that we found at Central Market. The herbed butter consisted of tarragon, parsley, shallots, and lemon zest.

The cider glazed carrots were simmered in fresh cider from Fowler Farms (New York), butter, cider vinegar, and water. Salt and pepper to taste.

The stuffing was one of my favorites. We browned about 8 cups of cubed Pullman Loaf in the oven (400F for 15 min), which were able to find fresh at Central Market (saving us loads of time). In the meantime, we browned about 8 medium shallots, diced, in 1 stick of butter, and added 2 pounds of sliced cremini mushrooms and 2 cups of chopped celery. We also added 2 tbsp fresh sage and 2 tbsp of thyme. Once all the liquid was evaporated from the saute pan, I added about 3/4 cup of white wine to deglaze. I choose to use Barefoot Sauvignon Blanc for my cooking wine, as I support their business model, and it is priced reasonably (about $5.97 at HEB).

We emptied the toasted bread into a large bowl, then poured the mushroom mixture on top. In a separate bowl, we whisked 4 cups of chicken broth with three large eggs, salt, and pepper, which we then added to the mixture. We transferred the stuffing to a baking dish, and baked at 400 for 30 minutes. To ensure the stuffing was crisper, we added pats of butter to the top of the mix before baking. Once cooking was complete, we added fresh parsley to garnish.

The potatoes were mashed through a strainer with roasted parsnips and garlic, then blended with whole milk, butter, salt and pepper.

At dinner, we enjoyed a 2005 Vecchia Cantina Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, a Sangiovese with notes of dark plum and cherry and a hint of tobacco. We decanted the nectar for about an hour before drinking.

We had two turkeys this year, one roasted and one fried. The sommelier used a Cajun Butter Injection for the fried turkey, whereas we brined the roasted turkey. Either way, they both turned out fabulous. The sommelier also prepared the gravy, in which we used turkey neck stock and pan drippings for the base.

The sommelier always does a fine job with the cranberry sauce. This year, he mixed the fresh cranberries with 1 cup of sugar, 2 tbsp of rum, and the juice from 2 tangerines. He set on medium heat on the stove until desired consistency. Salt to taste.

My sister Karen makes this pumpkin cream cheese pie. I am unsure of what she does, but it is always delicious!

My mom helped me make this apple and raisin crumble pie; I note that baking is not my forte. I did make the crust, however, adding just a few tsp of apple cider vinegar and using ice water to keep the dough flaky. The filling was made with 6 peeled and cored granny smith apples, sliced, with 1 cup of raisins, 1 cup brown sugar, 2 tsp vanilla, 1.5 tsp cinnamon, 3 tbsp flour, and grated lemon peel. We also made the crumble using cinnamon, butter, brown sugar, salt, and flour. Not bad for my first apple pie, if I say so myself!

Our dessert wine was truly special. The sommelier bought out the good stuff: a 2001 Arbois Vin Jaune. Made from Savagnin, this 8 1/2 year aged wine has the nose of almonds and the palate of dry sherry.

Since we only host Thanksgiving once every four years, the sommelier and I both know that next time around, things will be different. Perhaps simpler, perhaps more likened to Rhea’s tastes. This year, though, I truly enjoyed the challenge of our complicated menu, even if I needed an extra glass bottle of wine to get through it all. Cheers!

As I sat in our living room, surrounded by an ever-growing array of developmental toys, I realized that this is our opportunity to shape our Holiday traditions for years to come. I can still remember the beginning of the season as a child: Thanksgiving dinner and the big Texas rivalry football game, followed the next day by turkey salad sandwiches. That first weekend was always spent decorating the house for Christmas; we had an artificial frosted tree, covered in twinkling multi-colored lights, with a handmade nativity set that laid below. We hung garland and tinsel while listening to carols on the record player. I often wonder what Rheagan will remember as she migrates through life. What will her food memories be? More importantly, will she remember us fondly as parents who dared to inlay new traditions? I suddenly became overly ambitious. I researched recipes and menus, and decided on our first Howe Thanksgiving Menu:

Starters:

Hickory-Bacon and Roasted-Corn Gougeres

Celery-root Bisque with Thyme Crouton

Main Courses:

Simple Roast Turkey with Rich Gravy

Sage and Mushroom Stuffing

Cranberry Sauce with Rum and Tangerine

Cider Glazed Carrots

Mashed Potatoes with Caramelized Garlic and Parsnips

Haricots Verts with Herbed Butter

Also:

Howe Cajun Fried Turkey

Patsy’s Famous Jalapeno Stuffing

Dessert:

Karen’s Holiday Pumpkin Cheesecake

Cinnamon Apple Pie with Raisins and Crumb Topping

a selection of paired wines, TBD

Tomorrow we will begin the preparation for our meal, as little Rhea, the sommelier, and I will head to Central Market for parsley root, parsnip, and local cider. We will contrive a shopping list to gather our ingredients, bond together through local selections, and wander the aisles, searching for best kept foodie secrets. It will be our first tradition in the Howe household, hopefully one of many more to come.

The view of Far Niente Vineyards in Oakville.

The estate was founded in the late 1800s, and was restored in 1979.

Of all our winery visits, Far Niente had the most beautiful caves.

The Nickel family, owners of the winery, have a passion for classic vehicles. It’s a beautiful collection, and is aptly demonstrated by my sister Emily.

Along with our tasting of Far Niente Estate Bottled Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, Dolce also made an appearance.  The artisan cheeses made the experience complete.

Our first meal in the valley took place at Mustard’s Grill in St. Helena.  This seafood tostada was divine.

One of my favorite pictures, taken at Opus One Winery.

My brother in law and the sommelier, enjoying the views atop the veranda, Opus One.

A peek into the enology lab.

The second press.

A blend of French style and California goodness.

This stairway was built from one solid piece of concrete, and is not attached to the supporting walls.  Amazing.

At Bottega, an heirloom tomato and burrata dish, accompanied by balsamic vinegar roe.

Groth Vineyards had a beautiful insect garden, to aid pollination.

We had the opportunity to see the bottling process, including labeling.

Groth is a very small family winery, tucked in the valley outside Oakville.

We came at the most fruitful time of year: harvest.

Grilled chicken, bacon, heirloom tomato, and avocado on herbed focaccia bread, at Market.

While we did not linger in the winery, we did take in the artistry at Clos Pegase.

The scene inside Mumm Napa: the automated bottling process.

Before the invention of mechanic riddling, workers turned each sparkling bottle by hand.

Three Coalson Sisters at Press: Bryana, Karen, and Emily. (we felt lost without our fourth sister, Krista!)

The best of everything in one: wine, views, and hospitality from Peter Michael Winery.

The sommelier and I surrounded by Chardonnay.

We thoroughly enjoyed our trip this year to Northern California, and visited so many other wineries and restaurants not mentioned here.  All in all, we loved every minute of it.

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Opus One Winery:  When driving up Highway 29 through Oakville, the uniqueness of the Opus One Estate is immediately evident.  The design of the grounds resembles strong European descent, and slightly reminded me of the Roman influence in Bath, England.  The limestone pillars arced around the courtyard, almost enclosing us in the morning valley sun.  The California white oak that highlighted the doorways brought a rustic American influence, and created a beautiful contrast to the hard stone.  Immediately you knew that you were standing in a work of art, not to mention the luscious landscape of grapevines surrounding the Oakville property, which still held Cabernet Sauvignon.

We arrived early, so we took advantage of the time on the veranda to take in some views of Oakville.   As soon as the tour started, our host, Caleb Dial, brought us out to the vineyard to explain how the vintners cultivate the grapes at Opus One.  For those who don’t know, Opus One is collaboration between Baron Philippe de Rothschild and Robert Mondavi, and signifies a true relationship between French and California styles.  The one produced wine is manifested in a blend of five grape varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, and Petit Verdot.

What I most like about the tour of Opus One was the thorough education we received about the wine making process.  From the pruning of the vines to the chemistry of the grape, we were able to see and feel the development of the vintage.  After our visit on the grounds, we ventured inside to see the sorting of the clusters; at Opus One, this is done mechanically, which of course, increases efficiency and decreases human error.

After this process, the grapes are transferred into stainless steel holding tanks, were they are allowed to soak on their skins and begin fermentation.

Once this process is complete, the winemaker will empty the tanks into New French Oak barrels, where they are aged appropriately.  While at Opus, we were able to see the final pressing of what must and skins were left at the bottom of the stainless steel tanks, which is further pressed to create a second pressed wine, which is also aged in oak barrels.

Once all the young wines are aged and ready for blending, the winemaker decides at what percentages each varietal, as well as the second press wine, is used to create the Opus One Bordeaux Blend.

The Barrel Room was beautiful, with rows upon rows of fresh French Oak.  During our visit, the barrels were still awaiting the concoction, so the space was anticipatory, and smelled of toasted wood.   On the tangent of the area we found the most recent vintage of Opus One, the 2008 Blend, waiting for us to taste.   This particular vintage was allowed to sit on the skins for 22 days, and then aged in New French Oak for 17 months.

2008 was an extraordinary weather year for Oakville, and as such, the yield was rather small.  From what I understood from the tour, however, is that the smaller harvest can sometimes produce more robust wines, with more intense flavor.  This vintage was gorgeous, with immediate notes of black currant and licorice.  It had a dark, red ruby color and smooth, bright flavor of wine that was not too fruit heavy.

Caleb was very patient with us as we asked various questions; he was even so good as to give the sommelier some advice on the third level Court of Master Sommelier Exam.  Out of all of our tours over the four day span, I definitely learned the most about wine making from Opus One, and if the way they care to educate their clients even slightly resembles the care in which they make their wine, it is no wonder that Opus One continues to be an award winner year over year.

Peter Michael Winery:  I think we spent about an hour in the car driving North on 29, forking in Calistoga, and forging into the Knights Valley to find ourselves at Peter Michael Winery.  There was no considerable sign, in fact there was no sign at all, only a small board that read: Trout Fishing.  The sommelier turned down a rocky gravel road, and soon we found ourselves pulling in to the estate, parking next to employees.  It was obvious that this tour was private, as there was no evidence of even a public tasting room.

We met Morgan Melkonian, our host, in the winery offices, where she promptly loaded us into a passenger van.  I was bit intrigued, as we had not yet experienced such personable hospitality as of yet.   On our way up the hillside, she explained the history of the winery.  Sir Peter Michael sought out the acreage in the early 1980s, where he planned on creating a vineyard and family retreat.  As we made our way through the estate, Morgan pointed out the pond in which the grandchildren played during the summer months, the original restored cabins, and the creek that runs throughout the winery.  It was apparent why Sir Peter Michael chose this particular piece of land, the rolling hills and consistent water source make for a formidable place to clear your mind, as well as an immense return on investment.

As we drove through the vineyards, continuing to climb the hillside, our party was literally jumping out of their seats, camera in hand.  The sun was shining perfectly onto the grapevines, the plump red fruit almost ready to harvest. Some of the most famous names in the industry have served as Peter Michael’s winemaker: Helen Turley, Mark Aubert, Vanessa Wong, Luc Morlet, and current winemaker Nicolas Morlet.  The history here is impressive. We finally came to a stop at the top of the hillside, where the views were the most stunning of our entire trip.  We slowly exited the van, and continued on to learn about the winemaking details at Peter Michael.  We were shown the different grape varietals, and were able to taste some lingering Chardonnay.  All of the wines at Peter Michael are made with Estate grapes, less five percent sourced from other areas.  This makes for outstanding vintages, as these are the first vineyards to be planted on the estate.  Before Sir Peter Michael bought the acreage, the land was being used for cattle grazing, so the soil has not been exhausted with years of harvesting.

Once we fatigued our camera batteries, we were taken back down the hillside to the estate offices for our tasting.  Here we found that the winery models after French tradition, with a few modern influences.  In addition, Sir Peter Michael has made a commitment to keep the winery family owned for 100 years, and has already started to hand over the winery to his son for future vintages.  The wine that is made here is not available to the public directly, but rather distributed throughout the country and available via winery member allocations.

The presentation for our tasting was impressive, laid out for each of us in a private room.  It consisted of four vintages:

2010 L’Apres-Midi Sauvignon Blanc: immediately on the nose I experienced the flavors of honey and grapefruit; very long and elegant, the minerality was evident on the finish.

2009 Ma Belle-Fille Chardonnay:  instantly I had a sense of peach and tangerine; the flavors included a brioche and almond concentration, the mouth layered and the finish long.

2009 La Carriere Chardonnay: aromas of pastry, lily, and honey filled the nose; in the mouth the wine was bright and very mineral.  This particular chardonnay will age for up to two decades.

2008 Les Pavots Bordeaux Blend: a bouquet of black currant, cherry, and licorice was immediate, followed by chocolate and vanilla; the complexity of the wine continued into the finish, as the impression was silky and smooth.   The sommelier commented that this was one of the most well made wines of 2008 in the region.

Morgan was a gracious host and eager to provide us answers to all of our questions.  It was apparent on why she was so perfect for her position, as she tailored our tour to our level of knowledge and enthusiasm.   Peter Michael has produced some stupendous wines, and is being continually recognized as a top notch winery among the critics.  Although it is not easy to obtain retail, it is available in select restaurants.  In San Antonio, you can find it at The Sandbar Fish House & Market, among others.

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All of our winery tours were amazing, the weather perfect, and the vintages marvelous.  The sommelier and I adored everything.  Please look for my next post, a photo essay, to be published soon with regard to our adventures elsewhere.

There was a slight chill to the air that chosen morning, or rather, the slightly less warm breeze that we can sometimes experience here in South Central Texas. The sommelier opened the sunroof, the speakers leaked a mix of Phantogram, Phoenix, and Beirut, and the little girl rested quietly in her car seat. Aaaahhhh. Sunday. We were headed north, driving into the Texas Hill Country, ready to discover some great gems in our own locale.

We opted to first eat lunch at a quaint restaurant in historic Comfort. 814A Texas Bistro occupies the former Comfort Post Office, and serves daily specials of both scratch made soups and fresh seafood. In addition, the menu boasts of an Angus Burger and Pork Hoagie, among others. I chose to start with the house made tomato soup, which was admittedly a little thin, but the grated farm cheese rounded out the flavor nicely. With a direct view into the kitchen from our table, we could watch Chef Millard laboriously sautéing my red snapper, with white wine butter, tomato, and fresh lump crab. The best lunch meal I’ve eaten in a while, it was served with creamy parmesan risotto and crunchy green beans. The dish was light, flavorful, and perfect for late summer. My handsome lunch date ordered the Angus burger, served on a Kaiser roll with a side of rosemary roasted potatoes and Chef’s honey Dijon mustard. The sommelier chose to pair our meal with the 2010 Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc-Viognier, with hints of tangerine, peach, and honey; the balanced acidity did not overwhelm my snapper, and provided equilibrium to the sommelier’s Angus. We came upon 814A by happenstance, and we were both pleased with our decision to dine there.

The drive from downtown Comfort to Bending Branch Winery is fairly short. The road twists and turns through the Hill Country, the valleys of burnt Texas grass, overlooking dry creek beds and dusty landscapes. We pulled into the winery: the wine tasting area complete with covered porch and outdoor stone fireplace. The interior of the wine tasting room itself was gorgeous, with a bar consisting of a tree sliced in half, and matching barstools. We were immediately greeted by the lead man behind the bar as we walked through the door. The sommelier nodded in recognition. No surprise. Apparently John, also the VP of Operations, is the lead liaison to wine purchasers in Texas, and has met the sommelier on several different occasions. I’m sure it is by no mistake that this is the first time the sommelier has taken me to the Texas Wine Trail in a very long time. This wine must be fabulous.

“Two tastings, please.” I could hardly wait. It has been since early 2010 that the sommelier took me wine tasting. Now we have the little girl. And even she was pleasantly surprised at her surroundings, researching the bar top, reaching for the wine glasses, enjoying the view of the hills in the distance. It was evident that we would all enjoy the experience immensely.

We first tasted Vermentino, a Spanish grape that is best known for its crisp citrus flavors. It was a nice start, and you could tell that the family winery took great pride in their work. I soon came to find out that the founder of Bending Branch, Dr. Robert Young, has spent many years researching viticulture and enology, and has achieved his winemaker certificate from UC Davis. It is evident that both he and his son-in-law, John ( friend of the sommelier, the VP of Operations, and also a viticulture student), are highly influenced by California and France, and are attune to the Old World Style of winemaking, as evident in their current selection of blends. Every wine we tasted was flavorful, although my personal favorite was the Tannat.

It is no surprise that this varietal stood out among all, especially after learning that Tannat originates from the Bordeaux region of France. Bending branch had two styles of Tannat: one made entirely from the new grape vines here in Texas, and one made from older grape vines brought in from California. Both were delicious, with a dark purple color and an abundance of fruit. We also tasted a Picpoul Blanc, Rousanne, and Petite Sirah. The Picpoul Blanc was also ideal for summer, known as a “lip stinger” due to its bright acidity and tropical flavors. Because both Tannats were completely sold out, the sommelier chose to purchase a bottle of Petite Sirah for our home collection.

The last wine we tasted was the Rose, like the Texas Tannat, completely made from the new grape vines here in Texas. The wine was a perfect complement to the summer heat, a wonderful salmon colored, dry wine that I immediately thought would be perfect for Sunday brunch. Even the little girl thought it had a great nose. At this point John mentioned that the winery was completely green and organic, and I thought: why don’t I see more of this wine in our local restaurants?

Well, Max’s Wine Dive in San Antonio has already beaten the local scene to the punch. You can find Bending Branch wines on their list, as well as at the The Welfare Café, Hugh’s on High in Comfort, and 814A Texas Bistro (previously mentioned here). There are rumors of Bending Branch becoming available at some local HEB’s very soon. Check out their facebook page or follow them on twitter for more information.

Of course, the sommelier gained access to a tour of the lands and production areas, complete with a barrel tasting of an upcoming cuvee that I am particularly excited about. All in all, we had an extra-ordinary visit to this small Texas winery, and after leaving, I realized that we are so lucky to have such high quality in our own backyard (Bending Branch has the medals to prove it).

We packed up the little girl, opened the sunroof, pumped up the Phantogram, and drove off towards San Antonio, leaving a spray of dry dust behind us. Aaaaaah. Sunday. I couldn’t have asked for a more flawless day.

St. Mary’s is a small Czech community just east of the infamous Shiner, Texas.  My maternal grandfather’s family settled there in the late 1870s; there are still remnants of the original village, including a small elementary school named after the homeland.  The Mozisek Reunion is one in which my whole family looks forward to every year.  Mostly because we get to see our extended family: countless cousins, Aunts, Uncles, and others who share in our Czech heritage. Sometimes there can be more than 200. Even more, however, because a trip to St. Mary’s means a full serving of local homemade Texas Czech dishes, using recipes passed down by generations.

This year, we had Janak’s Czech sausage for our family meal, made fresh just days before.  Old fashioned and hickory smoked, this sausage is the best tasting you can find in Texas, less you make it yourself.

You can’t go wrong with country potatoes, made simple and clean.  Boiled and tossed with sweated onions, these potatoes are finished with butter, salt, and pepper.

Every reunion one of our relatives brings garden fresh green beans; a small amount of acidity keeps them crunchy and vibrant.

It just isn’t right to serve country sausage without homemade soda bread.  My grandma used to make homemade bread on special occasions; wrapped around a sausage link with a little mustard, it’s heaven on earth.

Even the desserts are done right.

My great Aunt makes these famous kolache rolls, using cream cheese and poppy seed.  After our family meal, we have an auction to raise money for the hall rental.  Every year these baked layers of goodness sell for at least $35 each.  You can’t find this quality anywhere else.

There are so many ways to celebrate being a Texan these days; I say being Czech is one of the most rewarding.  From festivals to kolaches, sausage to Praha inspired beer (think Shiner); you can’t go wrong rejoicing in the heritage.  Every bite brings me back to the small ranch where my grandparents lived. Where cattle lined the fences my sisters and I would help mend in the summers.  Where I can still hear the locusts at sunset.  Where every meal was made with love.  This is Texas.  This is Czech.  This is our family.